Thursday, April 5, 2012

SE Asia Sign-off

“Backpacking” according to Wikipedia:

Backpacking is a term that has historically been used to denote a form of low-cost, independent international travel. The factors that traditionally differentiate backpacking from other forms of tourism include the use of a backpack or other luggage that is easily carried for long distances or long periods of time; the utilization of public transport as a means of travel; a preference for inexpensive lodging such as youth hostels; a longer duration to the trip when compared with conventional vacations; and an interest in meeting the locals as well as seeing the sights. It is typically associated with young adults, who generally have fewer obligations and thus more time to travel.

“Backpacking” according to me:

The act of backpacking taught me a lot. Maybe even more than some of the people I met on my trip in SE Asia and maybe even more than some of the museums and sights I visited. Resilience, street smarts, patience, and a strong “go-with-the-flow” mentality are all of the utmost importance when traveling without a plan or guide or local in almost lawless countries. I learned that “structure” and “reason” were two ideas I needed to throw out the window, and that getting annoyed because a bus left three hours late is just not worth the fuss. When I first arrived in a very developed, Western country (Spain) after my trip, I felt a little bit sheltered. Things aren’t supposed to be this easy. A little green man notifying me to cross the street is just so simple compared to dodging hundreds of motorcycles coming from four different directions on a five-lane gravel road. And that’s what backpacking is to me: a lesson in the importance of resilience and contrast. Living in an “untraditional” way toughens you from the inside out and secures in you a sense of appreciation that will never waver.

Strut-packin' the streets of Bankok
Along with the difference in means of travel, a few details stuck out to me during my 6-week excursion that I haven’t included in earlier posts…

The term “flashpacking” is funny. There are classifications within every activity around the world, and flashpacking is a reference to backpackers who don’t always stay in community dorms, who buy souvenirs every once in a while, and who sometimes splurge on airplane tickets to make it cross-country. I admit, there were times when I was a bit “flashy”. When you’re traveling for a short period of time, squeezing everything in sometimes leaves no room for frugality. Abbie and I had fun with the term, and we also met quite a few “gappackers” as well (newly graduated travelers enjoying their gap year by backpacking). Most backpackers we ran into were Europeans, Canadians, and Australians. I met nearly no Americans, and in the current book I am reading, “Tales of a Female Nomad”, the author shares this observation. An American herself, Rita Golden bluntly explains that Americans simply don’t take time off like the rest of the world does. Usually we have a shorter time frame in which to travel in, more responsibilities, and we typically prefer the structured lifestyle in our more comfortable society.

However, to avoid a cross-cultural analysis of “why people travel”, I’m going to turn to some more humorous observations from Asia. First, I have to confess; I still have NO idea how to flush a public toilet in Thailand. Primarily I was too embarrassed to admit to Abbie that I didn’t know how, and then it got so long into the trip that asking at any point would signify that I hadn’t properly been flushing the toilet the whole time. There is a toilet, and next to it is a large basin filled with water, and in this basin is a bucket. At the end of the trip Abbie and I laughed because she had no idea what the heck was going on with that either. We figured out you have to put a bucket of water in the toilet to make it “flush”, but even then I felt I was doing something wrong. So there’s my confession.

“Sidewalks” in Asia serve a completely different purpose than they do in the West. Sidewalks are not for people walking. Sidewalks are for motorbikes, food vendors, rats, kitchens, and clipping your toenails. We preferred to walk on the street.

Sidewalk in Vietnam = Parking
What is polite in SE Asia? A book alone could take you through the “do’s” and “don’t’s” of the region, but one rule I particularly liked is the necessity of taking off your shoes before entering a hostel, store, restaurant, etc. It gives everything a more bohemian vibe and in an uncanny way I felt like I was more part of a community. While we spent pretty much all of our time in cities where tourism is thriving, I particularly liked stopping over at the extremely local market in Surathani, Thailand. Abbie and I were the only Westerners, and were treated with such respect in comparison to the more touristic locales. The children would come right up to us and bow, and people were constantly smiling and walking with us.

Random fact: The pre-game song at all UNC basketball games, “Jump Around”, is one of the most popular on the SE Asia backpacker trail, and I heard it more times than I had during my four years at Carolina.

Why do all tuk-tuk and taxi drivers have one extra long fingernail on their right pinky? I had noticed this odd little trait and commented to Abbie about it – her brother had told her it was because of the prevalent drug use in the region; the fingernail serves as a tool for users to facilitate this abuse.

I know many books and online guides exist to facilitate travel to SE Asia. However, booking hostels, tours, activities, buses, etc. is something you just have to learn along the way. Word-of-mouth is the ultimate source for finding the right places and things to do, and by the end of the trip I understood what hostel profiles on hostelworld and hostelbookers looked sketchy, and which ones looked awesome. A 100% rating means the hostel itself wrote all the reviews, and anything below 60% should be avoided. Customer ratings helped us so much throughout the 6 weeks, that I made sure to write my own recommendations on TripAdvisor and hostel websites to spread the travel wealth.

Occasionally seeing locals and hostel workers give a hot cup of coffee each morning to their Buddhist alters made me happy. To pure themselves of greed, Buddhists make food offerings to their personal alters every day. If I was Buddha, I would want a caffeine boost every morning, too.

Namo Amida Buddha
…A few groundless remarks about the randomness of backpacking seems like the perfect way to finalize my “Asia posts”. I hope you’ve enjoyed the wild journey along with me (perhaps it has made you want to quit your job and jet over there, too??)